Blueberry Buckwheat Šmoren: An Old Favorite Revived with a Twist

A couple of months ago, I had a hankering for an old favorite I called Buckwheat Breakfast Crumbles when I first came up with the idea, back in 2012, the year I launched my official Year of Slovenian Cooking.

At the time, I thought I thought I was being quite creative--but also practical--when I decided to use some of the buckwheat flour left over from tackling žganci to make šmoren, another traditional food I had just discovered. It also felt daring to invent my own recipe. 

(What can I say?  It was a long time ago :-)  

This time, instead of serving blueberries on the side, I thought I might mix them right into the batter. 

Fortunately, I realized the blueberries would probably pop and I would be left with a greenish-brown mess. So I made the šmoren as usual and then gently folded the berries in at the end. 

This simple comfort food still tastes good, for breakfast or for lunch. What's not to like about eggy, crumbled-up buckwheat pancakes?  It's even gluten-free. 

2 eggs 
6 tablespoons milk 
2 tablespoons buckwheat flour
2 teaspoons brown sugar

dash of salt 

1/4 cup blueberries (optional), to fold in before serving

Mix the first five ingredients together until you have a smooth crepe-like batter. Heat a frying pan with a thin film of oil. Pour in the batter. Leave it alone until the mixture starts to brown on the bottom. Then follow the usual procedure for šmoren: Take a spatula and begin to scrape, turn, and chop the mixture until you have a pan of nicely browned little crumbles. If desired, before serving gentle fold in the blueberries or other fresh fruit.  Serves 1 or 2..

Šmoren, Revisited

Šmoren at home

The second meal I made for my 2012 year of ethnic cooking was a breakfast dish and a new discovery: Šmoren. It sounded like a cross between a big pancake and an omelet that gets chopped and stirred into bits.

That first attempt turned out to be an eggy treat I quite liked, partly because the batter could also be used to make crêpes, otherwise known as palačinke in Slovenia. (Also known in my childhood as jelly rolls.) I went on to try a less eggy recipe. I also came up with a buckwheat version. They were all good. 

In honor of the 10th anniversary of my year-long cooking adventure, I decided to try one more šmoren recipe from a classic cookbook I acquired more recently: Pots and Pans, the SUA's first update to their venerable Woman's Glory. 

That recipe seemed to have less milk than the other versions I had seen. It was the closest yet to a conventional American pancake in taste and texture, which might have been less appealing--except for one thing. It closely resembled the šmoren I had finally tasted on our last trip to Slovenia. 

We had wandered one day into a food festival in the Ljubljana farmers' market and discovered classic Slovenian dishes being prepared on a large scale. I was fascinated when I saw a young man preparing šmoren in the largest frying pan I had ever seen! When we bought a serving to share, my first thought was that it seemed just like a big chopped up American pancake.  

So maybe this is the authentic Slovenian way. If you would like to try it, just follow the recipe below.  

                                                                         šmoren in Ljubljana

Šmoren  (from Pots and Pans)

4 large eggs, well beaten

1 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 cup milk

4 tablespoons hot fat (lard preferred) 

Beat eggs, gradually add the flour mixed with dry ingredients. Add milk and beat until smooth.  Heat fat or oil in ten inch skillet. Pour in entire mixture, cover, let fry until edges start to roll. Break into large pieces and turn. Keep turning into all edges are brown. 

The original recipe suggests serving with a salad or topping with pork cracklings or sour cream. I would be inclined to stick with fruit and sweet toppings like honey and jam. I would  also skip the lard and use a smaller quantity of oil or butter for frying. 

Slovenian Breakfast Week 2: Palačinke to Šmoren ("shmoren")

Menu

*Palačinke and Šmoren
  Šumska Jagoda (Serbian Strawberry Jam)
  Blueberries


When you can't choose between two Slovenian breakfast treats, what do you do?  I decided to try both, especially when some recipe browsing convinced me that the same egg-milk-flour batter could work for  either one.

It's true that the šmoren recipes in my three vintage Slovenian American cookbooks all called for separating the egg whites and yolks, which is not the usual approach for making palačinke or crêpes.  But an Internet search turned up a number of recipes where whole eggs were beaten together.  So I decided to use the  egg-rich šmoren version below.   It turns out to be virtually identical to the crêpe suzette batter in that most  iconic of  American cookbooks, The Joy of Cooking.

2 eggs
2 T plus 2 t. milk
2 T plus 2 t. flour
1 T sugar
dash of salt

Beat all together.

For 1 petite crêpe:  Melt butter in a 7 inch skillet and heat until a drop of water sizzles.  Pour in enough batter to coat the bottom in a thin layer when you tilt the pan.  When firm, flip over and cook till done.  Fill as you wish and roll up.  I used my traditional family favorite of butter and brown sugar, with a side of amazing Serbian strawberry jam that my journalist son brought home from the Balkans at Christmas.

For 1 small serving of šmoren:  Now I was entering terra incognita.  I melted butter in a 7 inch skillet as above and poured the rest of the batter in.  I had read directions and looked at pictures.  Some say you stir, some say you create little tunnels in the batter as it cooks, so it all gets done.  Some suggest you make a sort of omelet, then chop it into bits.  The idea is to have little eggy crumbles.  Or is it cubes? The eggs were cooking so I didn't have much time to decide. I stirred and scraped and flipped and chopped.  I ended up with the eggy crumbles you can see in the photo.  I sprinkled them with brown sugar.  Good, if slightly dense.

My conclusion:  For a party of one, I would be inclined to go with the tried and true palačinke.  That is the sentimental favorite, of course.  The jelly rolls of my childhood.  But for a crowd, I can see the advantage of šmoren.  Quick, easy, and tasty. . . and the cook gets to join the family for breakfast.

Of course, it was possible that I hadn't given the šmoren a fair shot, since I hadn't tried the more typical version, with the beaten egg whites folded in.

But that would be for another day, I figured.

Except that day came sooner than I expected.  It turns out that my husband, far from being relieved, was disappointed that there was no Slovenian dinner that night!  I tried to keep it in the proper spirit, at least:  I made cornmeal polenta to go along with a leftover sausage dish.

So, a few days later, I  made another batch of šmoren,  for our weekend breakfast.   This time, I followed the less eggy and more labor intensive recipe for Pancake Crumbles (Šmoren) in Treasured Slovenian & International Recipes, published by the Progressive Slovene Woman of America.

This one appears to be the standard recipe for šmoren,  since it shows up in many places.

1 C. flour
1/2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
2 egg yolks, beaten
1 C. milk
2 egg whites, stiffly beaten
butter for the pan

Mix the dry ingredients.  Add the egg yolks and milk and mix.  Fold in egg whites.  Melt butter to coat frying pan.  They suggest a heavy skillet (a good idea) and 1/4 C. of butter (not so good!)  I managed with about a tablespoon of butter.

For the šmoren:  Melt butter in a 10 inch skillet. Pour in the batter.  The Progressive Slovene Women suggest waiting until the mixture thickens on the bottom before you turn it over.  Then you "keep turning and chopping until lightly browned and little balls of crumbles are formed."

It worked for us.   Once again, it was a tasty dish,  enhanced with a topping of brown sugar or jam, along with some Greek yogurt.  I found this version, with the greater proportion of flour to egg,  vaguely reminiscent of  Jewish matzo brie, one of our breakfast favorites.   (My husband, who grew up with matzo brie, didn't quite see the connection, though.)

Which version of šmoren is better?  I think I prefer the first one.  This second one is higher carb and requires more effort.  Even with all that leavening, it still comes out a pretty dense dish.

And besides, it doesn't allow for the jelly roll option!

2022 10th Anniversary Update: For a new version that is the closest so far to the šmoren I tasted in Slovenia, go here.

"Easy-To-Prepare Breakfast for Teenage Girl"

We had just finished the previous week's stuffed cabbage when Tuesday rolled around again.  It was the day I'd designated for my weekly Slovenian cooking adventure.  The one day I work from home and have the kitchen to myself. 

Unfortunately, I had already started to feel overwhelmed at the thought of another meat-heavy meal.  I figured my husband (the main cook in our family) might have passed his limit.  Not a good sign, since this was just the second week in a year-long project.

So I decided to take a break.  Instead of dinner, I would make a Slovenian-style breakfast for a party of one.  I could get my ethnic meal out of the way early (and privately) and make us a normal dinner.

I consulted Women's Glory, my vintage guidebook to Slovenian American cooking.  In the middle of the "candies" section, they had strategically placed a page called "Easy-To-Prepare Breakfast for Teenage Girl."

At the top of the page, a smiling pre-teen girl posed behind her healthy breakfast.  I did a double-take.  That 1950s shirtwaist dress could have come out of my own closet. She had her dark hair in a lopsided page boy 'do.  Rounded cheeks, rounded arms, slightly thick waist.  A pretty little girl, but already on her way to plumpness.  It was like looking into a mirror and into the past.  My past. . . and my future, as a perennial dieter.

Weight-conscious girls are prone to skipping breakfast, the authors warn.  But three well-balanced meals, starting with a good breakfast, are an important protection against obesity. So here's what they suggest, for the Basic Breakfast:  Orange juice (4 ounces). Cornflakes (1 ounce) with milk (4 ounces). Buttered toast (2 slices).  Milk to drink (8 ounces.)

A teenage boy, of course, needs more: Twice those quantities of cereal and milk, with some sugar on top, Plus an egg, another piece of toast with jam, for a total of three slices.  Finished off with a cup of  cocoa. Evidently, the Slovenian American boy of that era didn't need to watch his weight.

Hmm.  Corn flakes, white bread with butter, orange juice, whole milk.  Not the kind of diet that has ever worked for me.   But more wholesome than Pop Tarts.  And better than nothing at all.

But if I was going to consider today's breakfast as  part of an ethnic cooking project, I had to do something better than that.

I had one easy solution, and a fitting one:  Jelly Rolls.   

That's how we referred to the special treat my mother made for weekend breakfasts. Paper thin egg-rich pancakes, made one at a time in a frying pan, and then wrapped around assorted fillings.  Jelly was traditional.  My Scottish father, who liked savory foods, took his jelly rolls with  butter only. But the favorite with us kids was butter and brown sugar.  My mother would stand at the stove, frying them up, sometimes trying to store a supply in the oven, so she could sit and eat with us.  But the four of us could eat those jelly rolls as fast as she could cook them.

Filled with cottage cheese, they became blintzes.  My mother had learned about blintzes, she said, from our close family friends who were Jewish.   A little later, we learned that jelly rolls were the same thing as French crêpes.

French crêpes.  Jewish blintzes.  American jelly rolls.  But there is one name we never learned: palačinke. Palachinke.  The Slovenian version of the same treat, and also a traditional food.  But my mother never suggested that our beloved jelly rolls had any connection to her Slovenian roots.

Jelly rolls would be easy.  But almost too familiar, since I already made them myself, though not as often as I did when my own children were small.

Meanwhile, I had come across another dish, with the same ingredients, but in an unfamiliar form.  An odd but intriguing hybrid:  A cross between an eggy pancake and an omelet,  but chopped or torn into bits.

Each of my cookbooks had a version.  Woman's Glory included a recipe for Kaiserschmarrn, or Emperor's Omelet, in the pastry section.  The American Slovene Club's cookbook listed Crumble Pudding, or Shmarm, as a dessert as well as a potato substitute.

The Progessive Slovene Women of America seemed to have the most accurate take on the dish, right down to the proper spelling.  Under Egg Dishes, they offered a recipe for Pancake Crumbles, or Šmoren.  

Palačinke or šmoren?  A beloved old favorite or an oddball dish that I couldn't quite envision?

I had the perfect solution:  I would do both, with the same egg-milk-flour batter.

It would be an adventure.  


Recipes follow.